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Energy Efficient Refrigerators
Federal efficiency standards took effect in 1993, requiring new refrigerators to be more efficient than ever before. The energy efficiency of refrigerators has improved dramatically over the past two decades, partially as a result of these new standards. The efficiency of a refrigerator is based on the energy consumed per year. The DOE standards set a maximum allowable annual energy consumption for different sizes and classes of refrigerators.
The energy bill for a typical new refrigerator with automatic defrost and top-mounted freezer will be about $55/year, whereas a typical model sold in 1973 will cost nearly $160/year. Most of the energy used by a refrigerator is used to pump heat out of the cabinet. A small amount is used to keep the cabinet from sweating, to defrost the refrigerator, and to illuminate the interior.
Tips and Tricks
How to install or remove common shelf supports
There are 2 common types of systems used to retain shelf support pegs. One has a center plastic plunger that when inserted causes barbs on the support's base to expand and lock the peg into place.
This type can often be identified by looking for evidence of a (now filled) center hollow. To remove these the center plunger has to be pushed right through the support peg using an awl or similar tool, to release the barbs.
To remove these the center plunger has to be pushed right through the support peg using an awl or similar tool, to release the barbs.
The other common type is twisted into place. To remove these, the very base of the peg needs to be grasped with a pair of pliers and twisted. Blunt nosed pliers work best for this when held perpendicular to the refrigerator interior's surface.
Once grasped firmly, the peg needs to be rotated clockwise 90 to release the support peg's retaining wires. After this is done, the peg should be loose and able to be maneuvered. The loose support may have to be manipulated slightly to align the retaining wires through the 'keyhole' slot it's mounted in. Once this is done, the old support can be removed.
To install the replacement, insert the new part in the 'keyhole' shaped hole and again holding the base securely, rotate the peg 90 clockwise. It should now be tightly held in place
Heat or warmth around refrigerator doors!
Older refrigerators had electric heaters on the edges of the refrigerator cabinet to help prevent moisture from building up, especially in the hot/hazy weather in the summer time. These electric heaters usually had a switch where you could turn them on or off...had words like..."switch here to prevent moisture"...switch here in damp weather".... in the picture it is in the top left of the control assembly.
Then along came the energy crunch. The manufactures stopped using the electric heaters and started running a pass of the hot condenser tubing on the edges of the cabinet where the electric heaters use to be. This is often called a yoder loop tube SxS version and the yoder loop tube Top freezer version. This has now replaced the electric heaters. If you feel heat/hot around the door opening of your refrigerator you should....
- clean the condenser coils as a dirty condenser can make the tubing hotter than normal
- check/clean & replace if necessary the condenser cooling fan motor, if the condenser fan motor is slow or has quit the yoder loop pass will get very warm/hot to the touch
- If the condenser coils are clean and the condenser fan motor is running ok, check the fresh food and freezer section temperatures...if the refrigerator is not operating well and the temps inside are warming up, you could feel more heat/warmth than normal.
Refrigerator is leaking water inside the fridge
Most times this is a plugged defrost drain system. The defrost heater in the freezer section melts the frost and changes it to water, this water is suppose to flow down a drain system. If this drain system is restricted or plugged the water will leak inside the refrigerator. The drain system starts in the freezer section with a tray built under the evaporator coil. The water is funneled through a small hose into a cup in the top middle of the fresh food section (not on all models, but this is the most common way), from there, the water is directed out the back wall to a drain hose that runs down the back of the refrigerator into a condensing tray. The heat created under the fridge makes the water evaporate and disappear. Some of the cups (in the top back of the fresh food section) can be removed for cleaning. A turkey baster can be used to help clean out the drain system. Fill the baster with hot water and "blast" it into the drain hose to help flush it out. A piece of wire or pipe cleaner can also be pushed into the drain hoses to help clean then out. On a S x S style of fridge the drain system is in the bottom back of the freezer section and often you will have to remove the evaporator cover to access the drain hole. You can clean this out in the same manner as previously mentioned, but because of the water leaking into the freezer instead of the fresh food section you will have to remove the ice build up to clean out the drain system. For some reason Whirlpool has found a need to "hide" the drain hose inside the walls now (Whirlpool makes many of the Kenmore branded refrigerators) on there top freezer refrigerators. This makes accessing the drain hose to flush it out more difficult, no cup inside the fresh food section, no hose down the outside back wall and the only access is inside the freezer section behind the back false wall and under the evaporator coils.
Will my freezer or refrigerator work ok in my garage?
A freezer only (chest or upright) will often operate fine all year round, but a frost free refrigerator will usually quit during the cold winter months.
A refrigerator is meant to operate in normal room temps ( 68-71F ). The colder the room air gets around the refrigerator the less it will run. The closer the rooms air temperature gets to the normal fresh food section air temperature ( 37-40F ), the less the refrigerator will run and we risk the freezer thawing out.
Under extreme cold/freezing situations, the oil in the compressor could thicken up and cause permanent damage to the compressor. Don't let the garage temperature drop to much below 10 degrees Celsius (50F). Otherwise, the oil becomes thick and could cause premature compressor failure.
Modern refrigerators:
Frost-free freezers are common companions to most refrigerators sold today. They keep ice buildup from forming in the freezer by adding a little heat to the coils every so often. Frost-free freezers have a timer, a temperature sensor, and a heating coil dedicated for the purpose. The timer is usually programmed to turn on the heating coils, which are wrapped around the cooling coils, about every six hours. This melts any ice that may be collecting on the coils. When the temperature sensor reads the temperature rising above 32 degrees, it turns the heating coils off. You may sometimes wonder why your ice cream bar isn't as frozen as it should be. It's probably because the heating coils were just on.
You can adjust the coldness in your refrigerator with a dial usually located either right in front or toward the rear on the inside of the refrigerator. It's basically a thermostat that tells the compressor when to turn off and on. It's important to know where to set the dial. If it's too cold, some foods will freeze. If it's not cold enough, some foods will spoil. The ideal temperature for inside a refrigerator is 37o F, while the freezer should be 0o F.
VERY IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER: We assumes no responsibility for inconveniences or damages resulting from use of the information he supplies. The consumer or reader is individually responsible for his or her use of the information supplied and uses this information at their own risk. We have no liability for errors, omissions, or any defects whatsoever in the information or instructions, or for any damage or injury resulting from the utilization of said information or instructions. All service and repair should be perfomed by professionals.
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Our company repair and service all brands and models of refrigerators in Los Angeles. If your refrigerator is leaking, doesn't cooling properly or you have any other problems, simply call our toll free number and we will take care of rest, returning your refrigerator to perfect working order. Call us to schedule an appointment for your Los Angeles refrigerator repair. We will do our best to set the appointment for the time that is most convenient for you:
We will always work with your busy lifestyle to schedule your Los Angeles refrigerator repair. For a convenient appointment, call us at out toll free line:
310-600-6007
Please note: We don’t work on small appliances such as vacuum cleaners, sewing machines etc. We work only on major appliances such as washers, dryers, refrigerators, ovens, stoves, dishwashers etc.
Or you can email us for a refrigerator repair appointment. In the email please include your name, phone number, zip code and a brief description of the problem that you are having with your refrigerator. As soon as we receive the email we will contact you, so that you can schedule your Los Angeles refrigerator repair appointment.
We service and repair all refrigerator brands and models:
Kenmore
Kitchen Aid
Magic Chef
Maytag
Sears |
GE
Viking
Bosch
Admiral
Sub Zero
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Frigidaire
Whirlpool
Fedders
LG
and more view all brands |
Our Los Angeles refrigerator repair coverege area includes entire Los Angeles and the surrounding cities:
Bronx
Brooklyn
Cambria Heights
College Point
Corona |
Hub
Jackson Heights
Jamaica
Jamaica Estates
John F Kennedy Airport
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Ridgewood
Riverdale
Rochdale
Rochdale Village
view the rest service areas |
How a common frost free defrost cycle works
When the refrigerator is running ( cooling mode ) the defrost timer contacts prevents any power from getting to the defrost heater. When the defrost timer turns off the power to the compressor and fan motor(s) the power is then redirected to the defrost system. The defrost timer motor
Defrost thermostat:
During a defrost cycle, the defrost heater causes the metal alloy in the switch to warm and as it does it curls back and breaks the circuit. As the metal cools, it makes a closed circuit again. A defective thermostat can prevent the defrost heater from coming on or allow it to overheat which could result in heat damage or fire.
The defrost thermostat is located near the defrost heater and is wired in series. It is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer, behind the freezer back wall of a top freezer or under the floor. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer. At room temperature the defrost thermostat is an open circuit ( no continuity ) and when cooled down the defrost thermostat closes the circuit ( has full continuity ) to allow the defrost heater to come on.
Defrost timers:
The defrost timer is sometimes found behind the front grill of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the refrigerator near the compressor.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector.
Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. One click and the refrigerator shuts off = defrost mode, second click the compressor and fans come back on = run/cooling mode.
*Some defrost timers are a constant or continuous run timer, which means when ever the refrigerator is plugged in the defrost timer is powered up and running. Some defrost timers are an accumulative run timer, which means when the refrigerator is off the defrost timer is off and not running, when the refrigerator is running the defrost timer is running. This is also sometimes called a demand defrost. The power for the defrost timer goes through the cold control first on an accumulative defrost system. The timers are often the same but will be wired differently to get the different operations.
Defrost heater:
Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely bad and should be replaced. Proper power (careful!) to the heating element (110-120 volts AC) and the defrost heater does not come on = bad defrost heater.
Some newer refrigerators have been using an electronic board instead of an mechanical defrost timer. The adaptive defrost control does the same job as the defrost timer (shuts off the refrigerator cooling items and redirects the power to the defrost heater for the defrosting cycle, then redirects the power to the compressor and fans to come back on when the defrost cycle is over). This adaptive defrost system is a bit different when testing, normally speaking if the defrost heater and defrost thermostat ohm ok, we replace the adaptive defrost board.
Noisy refrigerator:
fridge noise makers are the evaporator fan motor, condenser fan motor and the defrost timer. The evaporator fan motor is in the freezer section. Often when the freezer door is opened, the noise will get louder. The condenser fan motor is at the back bottom of the fridge. The defrost timer can be found in several different spots, at the back of the fridge, inside the fridge or under at the front are some common areas to find the defrost timer. Do not attempt to oil any of these parts, replacing them is the best repair.
Refrigerator/freezer food tips:
Freezing purchased frozen foods: Keep them in their original containers. Such foods include TV dinners, fish, bulk vegetables, pies, cakes, pastries, berries, etc.
Freezing meats, fish & poultry: Wrap well in freezer weight foil, forming it carefully to the shape of the meat. Fold and crimp the ends of the package to provide a good lasting seal.
Never ever re-use thawed, uncooked meat: Meat may be frozen successfully only one time when raw, and only one time after cooking.
Freezing home-cooked foods: Keep these in containers of wax-coated cardboard, aluminum foil or plastic. Foods cooked in pyrex ware or corning ware can be stored right in those dishes with tight fitting covers.
Freezing fresh foods & vegetable: Select only high quality produce. The condition before freezing will determine its quality when served. Prepare foods quickly and carefully, avoid excessive handling. Pack the food in odorless, moisture-proof containers to prevent it from drying out and absorbing other odors. Freeze immediately after packing. Thawed foods should be used as quickly as possible.
Freezer section- Suggested freezer storage times for other food items: Most fruits & vegetable - 8 to 12 months. Lean fish - 6 to 8 months. Fatty fish, breads, rolls, soups, stews, casseroles 2 to 3 months. Cakes, pies, sandwiches, leftovers (cooked) - 1 month. Ice cream (original carton) - 1 month maximum.
Refrigerator stainless Steel Cleaning
For both stainless steel or brushed chrome exterior surfaces, you should follow the tips:
- Always wipe with the grain
- Do not use chlorine bleach or cleaning products that contain chlorine bleach.
- Always read the manufacture's instructions on the label of the cleaner, to be sure the cleaner can be safely used on either brushed chrome or stainless steel.
- For daily cleaning and light soil, use a clean, soft cloth or sponge and one of the following:
> Mild detergent and water
> A solution of white vinegar and water
> Formula 409 Glass and *surface cleaner or a similar multi-surface cleaner.
Rinse and dry. To polish and help prevent fingerprints, follow with *Stainless Steel Magic Spray.
- For moderate to heavy soil:
Use a clean, soft cloth or damp sponge and clean with nonabrasive cleaner such as a baking soda paste or *Bon Ami. Rinse and dry.
To restore luster and to prevent streaks, follow with *Stainless Steel Magic Spray.
Tip-Chrome will permanently discolor if soil is allowed to bake on.
Specific instructions for cleaning moderate to heavy soils or discoloration on stainless steel surfaces ONLY (the below products and practices may scratch brushed chrome, so they are not recommended):
Using a clean, damp sponge or soft cloth, a mild abrasive cleaner such as *Cameo Stainless Steel Cleaner, or *Soft Scrub (without bleach) can be used. Rinse immediately and dry. Follow with *Stainless Steel Magic Spray.
More stubborn soils can be removed using a damp *Scotch-Brite pad. Be sure to rub evenly with the grain of the stainless steel. Rinse immediately and dry.
*Brand names are the trademarks of the respective manufacturer.
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