Oven doesn’t work:
When there’s no heat at all in the oven, the first thing to check should be the timer controls. An automatic cycle setting could be preventing the oven from lighting. If you have a self-cleaning range, make sure the door is in the unlock position. You will also want to check that all knobs are in the correct positions. If you have an Electronic Control, you can try unplugging the range for 30 seconds or so before you plug it back in. This can reset an Electronic Control. Make sure the gas is on to the range.
Most times when an oven won't bake, it's because the bake ignitor has gotten weak or it’s just burned out. The ignitor is a small round or rectangular device located near the burner. The ignitor is wired in series with the gas safety valve.
When the ignitor is cold, it has a lot of resistance, meaning it gets most of the electricity in the circuit. As it heats up, its resistance drops. This allows enough electricity to heat the bi-metal strip in the gas safety valve, which then allows gas to be released to the burner assembly. The gas then gets ignited by the glow-bar ignitor. The ignitor glows the whole time the burner is on, keeping the gas safety valve open. The thermostat senses when the desired temperature is reached, and cuts off electricity to the gas safety valve and ignitor.
If this ignitor is weak or burned out, it won’t heat enough to lower its resistance to the point where the bi-metal strip gets enough electricity to heat up and allow the gas safety valve to open, and it will not release gas to the burner assembly. When this happens, you may have to replace either the ignitor or the gas safety valve. Many times it’s the ignitor that is to blame, and cheaper to replace.
The gas safety valve does precisely what the name implies. It prevents gas from being introduced to the burner when there’s a possibility that it won’t get ignited properly. There are a few different variations in their operation, but the purpose is always the same, to prevent accidents. If the glow-bar or spark systems are in proper working order, you may have a faulty gas safety valve. Check it for continuity. A faulty selector switch or thermostat could also be your problem. Check the selector switch for continuity between pairs of contacts. If none, replace the switch. For the thermostat, consult your wiring diagram when testing it for continuity. If there is no continuity at any of the contact terminal points, you must replace the thermostat.
Maintenance Tips for Gas Ranges
- Use a properly grounded outlet if this is not wired directly to your household power supply.
- Use non-abrasive cleansers to clean finished exterior surfaces.
- Clean exterior surfaces with warm water and soap with a splash of ammonia to cut grease.
- Consult the owner’s manual for instructions on self-cleaning ovens.
- When cleaning around switches and knobs, spray some cleanser on a cloth and then wipe the surfaces. Electric parts do not like any liquids.
- Clean burner holes with a toothpick if they’re getting plugged. This will increase their efficiency.
- The burner drip pans may get stained over time. Once stained, it’s very difficult to remove it. Some people like to replace the drip pans every two to three years.
- Make sure to clean up any spills promptly. Something like tomato sauce, which is very acidic, can pit and corrode your drip pans and burner bowls.
- Use regular oven cleaners as needed.
If the range or oven is receiving power but doesn't work, the unit may have its own fuse or circuit breaker assembly. This assembly is usually located under the cooktop of the range. In some units, lift the top of the range to gain access to the fuse assembly; or lift the elements, remove the drip pans, and look on the sides of the cabinets. Inside the oven, look to the back to spot the fuse assembly.
If the unit has this additional fuse or breaker system, components such as the oven light, the range heating elements, the timer, and a self-cleaning feature may be separately fused.
If these components or features fail to work, don't overlook the possibility that the fuses have blown. To replace a blown fuse, unscrew the old fuse and install a new one of the same type and electrical rating. If the unit has circuit breakers, push the breaker or reset button, which is usually located on the control panel.
Replacing Range Heating Elements
When a range heating element burns out, it's easy to replace. But before you disassemble the range to check or replace an element, make sure the range is receiving power. Here's what you can do:
Step 1: Check the power cord, the plug, and the outlet. Then look for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers at the main entrance panel or at a separate panel.
Step 2: Check the fusing system inside the range. If the circuit is broken, restore it. If the range is receiving power, go on to check the element.
Step 3: When the element is cool, remove it. In most ranges, each top heating element is connected to a terminal block in the side of the element well. To remove the terminal block, lift the element and remove the metal drip pan that rests below it. The element is held by two retaining screws or is push-fit into the terminal block. To remove a screw-type element, remove the screws holding the wires. To remove a push-type element, pull the element straight out of its connection.
Step 4: Test the element with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect one of the electrical leads to the element and clip one probe of the VOM to each element terminal. If the element is functioning properly, the meter will read between 40 and 125 ohms; if the meter reads extremely high, the element is faulty and should be replaced.
To test a range element without using a VOM, remove a working element from its terminal block and connect it to the malfunctioning element terminal. Don't let the test element overlap the edges of the element well; keep the element inside the well, even if it doesn't fit perfectly. Turn on the power to the range. If the working element heats, the suspected element is bad and should be replaced. If the working element doesn't heat, the terminal block wiring or the switch that controls the element may be faulty. Call a professional service person.
Step 5: Replace a burned-out range element with a new one made specifically for the range. Take the old element to the appliance-parts store; if possible, take the make and model information, too. This data will probably be on a metal tag attached to the back service panel of the range. To install the new element, connect it the same way the old one was connected.
How to clean oven
Step1: Remove oven racks and soak them in soapy water.
Step2: Turn on your automatic oven cleaner; this usually entails locking the door and turning the function switch to "clean."
Step3: Let the oven do its work; it will heat for several hours, charring off baked-on foods.
Step1: Remove oven racks and place them in soapy water to soak.
Step2: Preheat oven to 200 degrees.
Step3: Turn the oven off and spray the inside with oven cleaner.
Step4: Allow to sit for 10 minutes.
Step5: Wipe the cleaner and dirt away with a damp sponge, rinsing frequently.
Step6: Dry with a soft cloth.
VERY IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER: We assumes no responsibility for inconveniences or damages resulting from use of the information he supplies. The consumer or reader is individually responsible for his or her use of the information supplied and uses this information at their own risk. We have no liability for errors, omissions, or any defects whatsoever in the information or instructions, or for any damage or injury resulting from the utilization of said information or instructions. All service and repair should be perfomed by professionals.
How range works:
Gas ranges basically take natural gas or propane and turn it into concentrated heat that you can use for cooking and baking. There are burners on the cooktop and one or two burners in the oven which burn gas that has been ignited by a pilot, spark ignitor, or glow ignitor.
On the cooktop you usually have 4 to 6 burners with grates over them that allow you to cook in pots and pans. Gas flows from the main gas valve to a manifold that has a corresponding number of burner valves. The gas is brought from the burner valve to the burner through a venturi tube. The burner control knobs that you see on the control panel attach directly to the burner valve. This valve controls how much gas is sent to the burner. To get a larger flame, you send more gas to the burner. The venturi tube between the burner valve and the burner allows the gas to properly mix with air for clean combustion. The air and gas mix then flows into the burner where the pilot flame or ignitor ignites it. On models with a spark ignition, there is usually a spark switch attached to the burner valve, a spark module and the spark ignitor. When you turn the valve, the switch tells the spark module to send electricity to the spark ignitor to create the spark to ignite the gas. Almost all older cooktops with unsealed burner units allow you to raise the entire top for cleaning and service.
In order to control how close your food is to the flame, there is at least one adjustable rack in the oven. In the oven, there is at least one burner on the bottom. If there is a broiler below the oven, this is the only burner in the oven. If you have a utility drawer or nothing below the oven, there is probably a second burner on the top of the oven that is used during broiling. The burner is a tubular device through which the gas flows before it's ignited. It has a lot of little holes on its sides that lets the gas burn and provide heat evenly throughout the oven. The gas gets to the oven burners through a safety valve. The gas safety valve does precisely what the name implies. It prevents gas from being introduced to the burner when there’s a possibility that it won’t get ignited properly. There are a few different variations in their operation, but the purpose is always the same, to prevent accidents, and allow gas to get to the burner when it is safe.
In order for the gas in the oven to burn it needs to be ignited. The most common ignition systems in use currently are the spark ignition and glow-bar ignition systems. Pilot flame systems tend to have hard to find parts.
Many ovens use the glow-bar ignition system to light the oven or broiler. During normal operation, the glow-bar will glow yellow-hot. A weak or faulty ignitor may still glow, but only glows red through orange. Replace a faulty ignitor. Some glow-bar systems have a fuse in the system, under the cooktop or in the console itself. Check for continuity in these systems.
Spark ignition systems use a spark module to generate a high-voltage spark which is used to ignite a pilot light. This module is used for the burners on the stove as well as the burner in the oven. As the pilot light heats a capillary tubes' bulb liquid, it expands and puts pressure on a diaphragm. The diaphragm then opens the gas safety valve, releasing gas to the burner. This gas then gets ignited by the pilot light flame.
Pilot ignition systems in the oven use a flame sensor to determine whether or not the pilot is lit. This sensor sits in the middle of the pilot flame. The position of the sensor is very important. The pilot flame has two parts to it, the outer yellow flame, and the inner blue flame. The sensor needs to be in the hottest part of the pilot flame, located right at the tip of the blue flame to operate properly. If the sensor detects that the pilot is lit, only then will it allow the gas safety valve to open and let gas flow to the burner.
Gas Oven Safety Tip:
If you smell gas, leave the house immediately. Do not try to turn off the gas from inside the house, or turn any lights on or off. Find and turn off the master gas valve outside the house. Go to a telephone and call the gas company or the fire department immediately to report a leak. Do not re-enter your home.
Replacing a Door Gasket
If the oven won't heat to the desired temperature or heats unevenly, the problem could be a defective door gasket. The best way to test for this is to pass your hand around the door, being careful not to touch it, while the oven is turned on. If you can feel heat escaping, the gasket needs replacement. Replace it with a new gasket made for the range.
On most ovens, the gasket is located on the frame of the oven, and the door closes against it. This gasket is generally friction-fit in a channel and can be replaced. In other units, the oven door has two sections, and the gasket is not mounted on the door frame, but is installed between the front and back sections of the door. Don't try to replace this type of gasket; call a professional service person. Here's how to replace a frame-mounted gasket:
Step 1: Pull the old gasket out of the channel. On some oven door frames the gasket is held in place with screws. To get at the screws, bend back the exposed edge of the gasket.
Step 2: Clean the channel and the door frame with a solution of mild household detergent and water.
Step 3: To install the new gasket, start the replacement at the top of the door frame and work down the sides, easing the gasket around corners. Finish the installation along the bottom, butting the ends of the gasket firmly together.
Cleaning the Burners
Clogged burners are a very common problem with gas ranges because foods spilled on the burners block the gas ports and prevent ignition. On some gas ranges you can remove the top ring of the burner to expose the ports. Here's how to clean a burner:
Step 1: Turn off the power supply, both gas and electric, to the range. Then remove the burner.
Step 2: Soak the burner in a solution of mild household detergent and water. Clean it with a soft cloth.
Step 3: Clear the gas ports with a pin or needle, rinse the burner, and let it dry. Caution: Do not use a toothpick or matchstick to clean the gas ports. If the tip of the wood gets stuck in the burner ports, it could cause a serious blockage.
Step 4: When the burner is completely dry, replace it, and turn on the power and the gas supply.
An oven that won't heat can occur for a variety of reasons. Check out the next section for tips on where to look to solve this type of problem.
An oven that won't heat or heats unevenly most likely involves a faulty control, thermostat, or timer. Don't worry because most of these problems can be fixed.
Repairing the Oven Setting Control
When the oven setting control malfunctions, the oven won't heat. Here's how to repair an oven setting control:
Step 1: Remove the control knob.
Step 2: Remove the back service panel or the front panel, if necessary. Remove other control knobs as needed to remove the panel. The oven setting control is located directly in back of the control knob and is usually held to the control panel by two screws.
Step 3: Testing the control with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) is not recommended, because the results will not always be conclusive. If you suspect that the setting control is faulty, the best procedure is to substitute a control that you know is working, or you could simply replace the faulty control with a new one made for the oven.
Step 4: Disconnect the electrical lead wires from the control terminal and lift out the control. Connect the new control the same way the old one was connected.
Servicing Oven Thermostats
If the oven doesn't heat evenly or doesn't heat at all, the oven thermostat may be malfunctioning. First, determine how much the temperature in the oven is off from the control setting. To do this, put an oven thermometer on a center rack inside the oven and turn the oven on for about 20 minutes, with the thermostat set at any range between 300 degrees and 400 degrees Farenheit. If the oven thermometer reads 25 degrees or more lower or higher than the oven control setting, the thermostat should be recalibrated. Here's how to calibrate the thermostat:
Step 1: Pull off the thermostat knob on the control panel. Behind the knob are two screws holding a round, notched plate. Loosen these screws, but do not remove them.
Step 2: With a screwdriver, change the notch setting on the notched plate by turning the plate counterclockwise; for every eighth of a turn, the oven temperature goes up about 25 degrees Farenheit. To turn the heat down, turn the plate clockwise.
Some thermostats can be adjusted by turning a screw inside the control knob shaft housing. To do so, remove the knob and insert a screwdriver into the shaft so that the screwdriver blade engages a screw slot. Turn the screwdriver counterclockwise about one-eighth of a turn to raise the heat about 25 degrees Farenheit. Here's how to test a malfunctioning thermostat:
Step 1: Test the thermostat with a VOM (multimeter) set to the RX1 scale. The thermostat is located directly on the back of the control knob that regulates the heat. To gain access to the thermostat, remove the back service panel to the control panel.
Step 2: Disconnect one electrical lead wire from a terminal of the thermostat and clip one probe of the VOM to each thermostat terminal. If the thermostat is in working order, the meter will register zero. If the needle jumps to a higher reading, the thermostat is faulty and should be replaced.
Step 3: If necessary, replace the thermostat with a new one of the same type.
If you need to replace the thermostat, follow these guidlines:
Step 1: Disconnect the terminal wires to the thermostat and pull off the control knob.
Step 2: Remove the retaining screws. On some ranges, there is a wire running from the thermostat into the oven. This wire operates a sensing bulb that controls the thermostat. The sensing bulb is usually held by a bracket; unscrew this bracket to remove the bulb. Then carefully slip out the wire, the bulb, and the thermostat.
Step 3: Install the new thermostat using a reverse procedure.
Replacing the Timer
The range timer is usually located in the control panel on top of the range. If you suspect the timer is faulty, don't try to fix it yourself. Remove it and take it to a professional service person for testing. Here's how to remove the timer:
Step 1: Remove the back service panel to the control panel and release the spring clips that hold it in position, or remove the retaining screws.
Step 2: Push the timer forward to release it.
Step 3: Remove the electrical lead wires from the timer housing. If, when disassembling the timer, you notice that the electrical wire terminals look burned, remove these leads and buff the leads and the terminal points with fine steel wool. Burned and/or dirty terminals can cause the timer to malfunction, but a good cleaning can solve this problem.
Step 4: Replace the old timer or install a new one of the same size and type, if this is necessary. Connect the new timer the same way the old one was connected.
The flame color on a gas range burner can give you a clue if any burner troubles exist. In the next section, learn what those clues mean and what to do about them.